Waterproofing a Shower

This project is making me tired. The tile is currently up, but I need to chisel out the mortar between the tiles and scrape the drips off so we can grout, but I just can’t find the motivation! I think today will be the day.

In the meantime, here’s some photographic evidence of what to do after demo.

There are a lot of things I think I can do on my own, and even attempt, but cutting and hanging cement board was one of those things I knew I’d need some extra muscle for, so this got done during Thanksgiving week. The day after my poor hubby had spent the day very physically ill in bed.

I’m nice like that.


And even that day we got this far and quit. Two walls done, back wall still in insulation.

You are supposed to be able to score and snap cement board, and I’m sure if I’d had a better scoring tool, it wouldn’t have taken as long. So, don’t be like me and use a utility knife. Be smarter than me and buy a scoring tool.


One quick Google search of “scoring tool for cement board” brought this right up.

You’ll also need special cement board screws if cement board is the way you go. Keep that in mind.


I got all gung ho one day and hung those last couple of pieces. I think what got us frustrated was we had one piece of board that was more difficult to score and we just lost the drive.

So, anyway, next you have to tape and mud the joints and screws. In drywalling, you use specific materials for that. The same is true here. There is a specific tape for cement board, and then you mud with your thinset/mortar.


Like so.


The next item on the to do list (after you’ve let the mortar dry for a day) is waterproofing. I was a little fanatical about this since a leak is what got us here in the first place.

I used this product. I ended up using a paintbrush to do the whole thing. The directions say you can use a roller. It calls for two coats, which left me about 1/4 of the bucket left, so you better believe I just painted the last of that on as well! Especially the corners. I’m a little nervous about the corners.

It goes on a lovely shade of pink and dries to an even lovelier shade of red.


Plus it looks a little purple over the mortar. It was feeling pretty Valentine’s Day-ish in there!

We scheduled Martin Luther King, Jr. Day as our new tile day, barring anyone waking up with a stomach bug. And let me tell you, it was close! Two of my kids had stomach bugs the week leading up and I was sure I was going to get it! But, we made it and got most of the tiling done that day.

I have a photo of the RedGard dry and the tile partly up since I didn’t get a shot of the walls in all their red glory.


This project is up and down for me. There are really exciting and satisfying moments, and then there are boring and tedious parts. But we’re coming down the home stretch and I know I will be so glad when it is done.

I won’t have to share my boys’ bathroom with them, even if it is one of my favorite rooms in the house.

Style-wise. Not function wise. Ew.

Updating a Bathroom Vanity

A Towel/Coat Rack






Demolishing a Shower

Let the fun begin!

Actually, the fun began Thanksgiving week, when we decided to use the break to get our shower demoed and tiled. But a stomach bug hit my hubby, so we got to the cement board installation and then were on hold for a long while.

But first, let me give you the backstory.

We walked through this house twice, and both times I had children with me. Since the house was occupied, I never felt like I got to give it a good once over with my eagle-eyes. I notice things like water damage, over-wear-and-tear, things that don’t work, and things that need repair. I was counting on the home inspector to be my eyes, but he missed something pretty big. I know he was distracted by what he thought was a bigger issue in that our fan doesn’t vent out of the roof. It vents into the attic and there are some nails in the sheetrock that have rusted, but he totally missed that the caulk and grout had failed and water was trickling out through the shower door and had caused some damage to the sheetrock and floor.

I noticed the damage right when we moved in but it felt dry so I figured someone must have fixed the problem without fixing the damage. After a few weeks of using the shower, I realized that neither was fixed and the wall was soaked. I panicked and cut the wet drywall out and pulled up the peel-and-stick tiles to find mold. Fabulous.


A contractor came in and told me the mold wasn’t the bad kind, just mold, and found the source of the problem and that the shower needed some waterproofing. He gave us a bid, we called our homeowners insurance, and we were told they didn’t cover damage from faulty caulk or grout.

So, we decided to redo it ourselves! I’m sure you’re surprised.

I had taken the glass shower door off a long time ago and taken it to our Habit for Humanity Surplus Store. All I had left was tearing down the walls!

It’s a dirty job. You’ll need safety gear. Specifically a face mask, gloves, and eye protection. I would also recommend some heavy-duty clothing.

You’ll also need some heavy tools.


I mostly ended up using that big hammer on the left.

You’ll also need a way to haul the debris out, especially if you are a bedroom, a hall, a flight of stairs, an entry, and a yard away from the truck you’re loading it all into.


I decided buckets were a good solution.

And figure out a way to cover your drain. You don’t want any of it going through your plumbing. I ended up using a scrap piece of plywood.

The only way to get started is to start hammering away. If you’re breaking through ceramic tile like I was, you’ll be very grateful for the eye protection now. Those suckers shatter into tiny shards!


But once you make some headway, it gets a lot easier. When you can see some joists, then you can figure out what lines to break so you can pull big chunks of wall and tile down. See how I just broke through all the way down between the studs?


Along this edge, I used a utility knife to score the wall board because I wasn’t sure how much I wanted to take off. I ended up going all the way to the corner, but was glad I did this until I was sure.

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See? A nice sized chunk. That was pretty rewarding. Also, I ended up on my hiney a few times trying pull large chunks off. It does require some yanking.

The back of the shower is an exterior wall, and so whoever had installed it had put a sheet of plastic between the studs and the wallboard. I had read that you shouldn’t do that because if moisture does get behind your tile, it has nowhere to go.

That was true for this shower.

I gave that wall one solid whack and the whole thing practically crumbled. There was an obvious difference between the dry and the wet. Plus, it stunk! Musty, moldy yuck.


It probably took about 10 solid hits with the hammer before this whole wall crumbled to the floor.

I got that last wall down, and a few days later it was time for hanging the cement board!

And that’s where I’ll leave you for today. On the next installment of The Great Shower Makeover!, lessons I learned about installing cement board.

It’s harder to cut than you think.





Installing a New Light Fixture

AND bye bye popcorn ceiling!

Whoever built my house loved fluorescent tube light fixtures and couldn’t decide on a ceiling texture they liked. We’ve got a little of everything in this house, from popcorn to knockdown to brush method. It’s a little zany.

My husband’s office was one of the lucky popcorn rooms, and that surely had to go. Our walls have a pretty heavy orange peel texture, so I didn’t want to scrape it flat. I thought that would look weird. I decided to just knock the heaviness of the popcorn off and see how that looked.



Maybe you can see the difference here. Scraped on the right, not on the left.

I was pretty happy with it so I went ahead and scraped the whole ceiling. I just used a 3 or 4 inch putty knife to do the whole thing then gave it a coat of Sherwin Williams Alabaster.

It’s a messy job. Wear a facemask.

The next thing that absolutely had to go was the light fixture. It was the worst. I think a nightlight would have been brighter.


Observe. It actually looks larger in this photo than it really was. It was pathetic.


I replaced it with this lovely.

Changing out a light fixture seems intimidating. Working with anything to do with electricity is scary to me, but this I can handle.

Step 1 – Turn off the power.

Step 2 – Double check that the power is off.

Proceed with removing the old light fixture. They’re held up by a couple a screws, so you just need a stepladder and a screwdriver.

The wires from the fixture and the wires from the house will be joined by a wire cap that is just twisted on. Twist those off. The wires from the fixture will most likely be wrapped around the house wires and come apart pretty easily.

Put that light fixture in a place it won’t get broken so you can take it to your local Habitat for Humanity store, then get your pretty new fixture out. Unless you bought your pretty fixture second-hand, there will be helpful instructions in the box.

This post from The Family Handyman is also very helpful and has some additional trouble-shooting. We’re big fans of The Family Handyman around here.


Basically, you’re just matching wire colors. Then you’ll uncerimoniously shove the wires back into the box and screw the fixture to the mounting bracket. If your old fixture didn’t have a mounting bracket, a new one will come in your box or you can pick one up at your local hardware store.


Nice work clothes.


Installing the missing bracket.


Connecting wires.


Shoving the wires into the box and a weird hair situation.


Ready to secure.


Pretty! And pretty easy. I bought my fixture from Home Depot from the comfort of our office chair. It was half price that day. I also looked at and was tempted by quite a few at overstock.com. Just do a little online shopping and find something you love at a price you love.

You can do this!






Pallet Board Backed Bookshelf

My husband made the mistake of mentioning he’d like a little project done in his office for Christmas. I took that to mean I had free reign in his space! He was going to be gone for a weekend, he’d been complaining about the TERRIBLE lighting in there, and I hated the ugly, mismatched metal desks he had. Plus, popcorn ceiling. Need I say more?

Of course my wheels started turning when he asked for a small shelf to store the router, modem, external hard drives, VOIP contraption, and the new internet controller we just got. I couldn’t help myself. I went into overdrive.

New desk made out of filing cabinets with a wood top.

New pretty light fixture.


Scrape the ceiling.

Replace the terrible cardboard backing to the cheap bookcases.

Let the shopping begin! I started pricing things out and realized my pretty small budget (less than $200) wasn’t going to get me very far if I was going to purchase beadboard at $35 a sheet to back the five bookshelves.

Let’s come up with a plan B.

When I had driven into the lumber yard in the past, I noticed a sign advertising free pallets. I’d seen projects done with pallets before, and while I really didn’t think that was my style, the price was right, so I picked some up.

Of course I figured taking them apart would just require a little muscle and a pry bar. WRONG!

Did you know that pallets are put together with these special, twisted screws? It makes sense when I really think about it. Those pallets hold some substantial loads and are carried around by forklifts. Not just any old nails would do the job. It makes them very strong so they won’t fall apart. It also makes them very difficult to pull apart. Like, almost impossible.


Ask me how I know. It only took me about an hour getting two boards off to realize I needed to figure out another way.

A reciprocating saw became my very good friend.


Hello, friend!

Here’s a quick rundown of how to cut those pallets apart.


Get your blade in between the joints. There might be a little gap, but there might not. You just want to run your blade between the two pieces of wood to cut the nails. Try not to gouge into the wood. It’s not the end of the world, but it makes it harder to cut through.

Go through all the boards on all the edge sides.

The middle is a little more difficult. You have pallet boards in the way from having a straight edge to go along.

To get the best control, I laid the pallet on the ground.


Then I could maneuver my saw in between the boards and cut the nails. It’s a little tricky, but totally doable.

It took me between 15 and 20 minutes to get one pallet apart. For free wood, it was totally worth my time.

Once you have all your pallets cut apart, you need to cut them to the correct length.

Measure your bookshelf width.


Go ahead and do it again for good measure. (Pun totally intended!)

Then mark your boards (again, measure twice, cut once) and cut them with a miter saw. Same kind of saw I used to make this coat rack.

Then lay them out on your $35 Walmart particle board bookshelf that you’ve happily ripped the paper-thin backing off of.


I had a little space left, and I wanted to make sure the bottom board was nailed to the bottom shelf for stability, so I just moved that board down so the gap was above the bottom board instead of below.


Like so.

Then I got to nailing. I put two nails in each side of the boards. Ask me how I know one nail in each side is not a effective. Go ahead, ask! Nevermind, you probably already know that answer.


Two by two. Kind of like Noah’s ark! Except with nails, so not really at all like Noah’s ark.


Stand it up and admire your handiwork! Also realize that forever when someone looks at this post they will know you did this project at Christmas. And your boots are in the corner. And there is a random picture on the floor that needs to get up on the wall. And…. oh, well. This is what my house really looks like. Nothing to be done about that.

See the gap in between the bottom two boards? If you hate it, you can certainly run a board through a table saw (which I don’t have) so you don’t have a gap, but I figured that stuff will fill up the bottom shelf and no one will ever see it. You could also space your boards out so there is a very small gap in between each one instead of one big gap. Do what feels right to you.

I’ve also used boards that were broken in parts. I figured it added to the rustic charm.


And here’s the small shelf that started the whole project. I’m sure he’ll never ask for a project as a gift again!

I never thought I would jump on the pallet bandwagon, but when it came down to it, I couldn’t beat the price. And it turns out, I love it! The black of the shelving unit with the multifaceted tones of the wood is really beautiful, and I love the contrast of the more formal light fixture I chose with the raw and rustic quality of the pallet boards.


The color of the walls really make the wood tones look richer as well.


I was truly surprised.

I’m going to start collecting pallets for the wood feature wall my son wants in his room as well!

What can I say? Gotta have a project.




Shower in Progress

I have this really terrible habit of assuming projects will be faster than they actually are. Take this particular project, for example.

I had originally planned that we would do this over Thanksgiving break because my husband had the whole week off. But he was gone on a trip for the first two weeks of November and felt that he really needed to work at least half of the week so he didn’t fall too far behind at work.

I figured I could handle that. We had already had our Thanksgiving dinner early with my sister, so I could do the demo and prep work while he worked Monday, Tuesday and half of Wednesday, and then we would get everything done the rest of Wednesday through Saturday. Done. Easy.


See, we have this Thanksgiving tradition I didn’t take into account.

Someone gets sick.


This year’s lucky participant just happened to be the person whose help I really needed! But, instead, he spent Thursday with a nasty stomach bug.

He rallied some on Friday to help with the plumbing and getting most of the Hardibacker hung, but then we ran into a couple of pieces that must have been a little more “set” than the rest because it took FOREVER to get those sheets scored enough to break.

And then we ran out of energy.

So this is what our bathroom has looked like for the last two-plus weeks.



Add in Christmas parties and being asked to help decorate for two different events for church, and my poor bathroom has been neglected.

I’ve even been forced to share my boys (admittedly beautiful, but still) bathroom.

So yesterday, I decided enough was enough. I had been able to do the scoring and snapping of a couple of sheets myself, so as long as I didn’t run into any of those impossible sheets, I should be able to hang the last couple of pieces myself.

And I did!



I even got it taped yesterday and bought some pre-mixed thin-set to mud the seams. In between elementary school class parties and middle school choir concerts, I’ll get the thin-set on and paint on the water-proofer.

Then, in our spirit of fun holiday activities, we’ll spend a day next week putting the tile up. We really now how to party.

Merry Christmas to you!

Please take my advice and don’t start a big project during the holidays.



A Quick Plumbing Retrofit

I do have some progress photos of the plumbing I did in the shower. Honestly, this is the part I was most afraid of, but it was the easiest.

Just like when changing out a faucet, you have to turn off the water, but there is no handy shut-off under the sink for this. You have to turn off the water to your whole house. You really want to make sure you have all the pieces you need so your house can have water returned ASAP. Ask me how I know this. Yeah, experience. Quick (not quick) trip to the store in the middle makes for a long time you can’t wash your hands or flush a toilet or get dinner started while you’re waiting for the missing part.

Anyway. You have all your pieces. (The guy at my local lumber store was extremely helpful in getting it all figured out for me. Take pictures of what you’re doing with you.) The water is off. Let’s get this party started.


Here is what I started with. I would have been happy to keep a two-handle faucet, but they barely exist anymore, so I had to go to a single-handle. That’s what got me into this particular mess.


This is your friend. It’s called a pipe cutter and it’s fun to use! I had to disconnect all the brackets (again, learned the hard way) that were attaching the pipes to the studs so I could get this to turn around on the pipe. The pipe goes in right where my index finger is and tightens down so the blade can cut through.


Cuts are made and I’m using a burr remover called for by the SharkBite company. If I had the skills and knowledge, I could have soldered copper fittings, but that is waaaaay out of my skill set, so I went for these amazing fittings. My helper at the lumber store also said I could rent a crimper and save myself some money, but, again, I wouldn’t have had a clue what I was doing, so these fittings made me feel MUCH more confident in my amateur plumbing job.

If you’re doing this project, watch this video.


This is what the fittings look like on the current copper pipe. They just slid right on.


I transitioned to Pex pipe. And you sure can cut Pex pipe with this same pipe cutter. They advertise a specific cutter, but it was $12 or so, and if I can get away with what I have, I sure will. My father-in-law replumbed his 100-year-old house using Pex, so I knew it was a good choice.


Some measuring, a couple of cuts, and a few more fittings later, I had my new faucet plumbing installed and the fitting ready for the new shower head.

It seriously was super easy. I only had to call my father-in-law once to ask about cutting the Pex.

I ended up using eight fittings and two 5ft sections of Pex. I could have gotten away with this cheaper, but peace of mind is worth a lot.


Mid-Bathroom Mess

I could tell you are just dying to know what is happening with my shower reno!

Let’s just say, it didn’t all go as planned.

This is what it looks like right at this very moment.


Oh, my.

In the meantime, I thought I’d share the links I’ve found informative and helpful.

This one from Lowe’s is great, although scoring and snapping the cement board is not as easy as they make it out to be.

This guy has a whole series on Youtube that is long, but VERY helpful. Especially about not putting up the plastic between layers. When I was tearing the walls down, the wall that had plastic between the insulation and the greenboard practically crumbled with one hit because it was wet and moldy.

My uncle told me about these when I asked him how I should retrofit the plumbing to install our new shower faucet and head. I already knew about Pex pipe from my father-in-law, and these SharkBite fittings made the transition from copper pipe to Pex sooooo easy.

We’ll be back at it this week finishing up the cement board and getting the waterproofing done so (hopefully, fingers crossed) we can tile Saturday. We’ll see how it goes.

Thanks for stopping by!


Installing a Kitchen Faucet

I went to a Ladies’ Night Out at my local lumber store and was SO disappointed. When I saw the advertisement, I was really excited to get to try out some new tools, learn some new tricks, and walk away with some new knowledge!

Instead, it was a glorified shopping event. Hundreds of women buying Christmas decorations at 40% off (not that I’m against a great deal!), vendors with giveaways for things like fancy coffeemakers, and drinks for all.

Not my scene. But they did have sales throughout the store, including on their faucets. And since I could stand for a new kitchen faucet, I took advantage of the 20% off sale and bought a new one.

Back under the sink I go!


My old faucet was old, and ugly, and hardwater stained. Still worked great, but wasn’t pretty. And now I sound shallow. But seriously, it was also really low and getting a pot full of water when the sink is (inevitably) full of dirty dishes required a special balancing act.

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So, I bought this beauty. It sat on the counter for a few days taunting me until I found the time to install it. Installation was a breeze! Removing the old one was a huge pain. Good thing I took photos to document the torture!

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Step one: Turn off the water. VERY important step. Don’t forget this. Age old “righty tighty, lefty loosey.” Got that done? Good.


Step two: Disconnect the water hoses from the valves. Use this wrench. It’s called an adjustable wrench and you won’t end up stripping the nut like might happen if you used pliers. You turn that spirally looking thing with your thumb to make the wrench opening bigger or smaller. “Righty tighty, lefty loosey” here, too.


Step three: Peer into the great, narrow abyss that is the space between the wall and the sink to figure out how this whole thing attaches. Way up at the top, there are some white nuts that threaded onto large plastic pieces that stuck through the holes in the sink. Those were easy. The special extension hoses that are attached to the original copper tubing were a whole other story. I couldn’t get the junction part through the hole in the sink, so….


I cut the copper with some wire snips. Because I was frustrated. And when frustration wins, things get destroyed. Not much else to say about that.


Finally! Now for the fun part!


Here’s my best advice on installing anything, really. READ THE DIRECTIONS! I was so excited to get the new faucet in that I forgot to take step by steps of this, but it was crazy easy. The faucet comes preassembled, so it’s just a matter of feeding the hoses through the hole, attaching the hoses in the exact opposite way you dettached the original hoses, including, and very importantly, using a wrench, and then feeding the nut onto the threaded part of the faucet that goes under the sink. If you have a sprayer, there’s one more quick and easy step of attaching the hose and threading a nut on, but the simpleness of the whole process is astounding.

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See how pretty and tall it is? See how much nicer it is than the old one? See how pretty it is even in it’s natural habitat?


And in case you think I’m a big fraud, here’s a fabulous photo of me under the sink trying not to cuss out the stupid hose extensions I couldn’t get off.

A couple of notes. When I got the old faucet off, I had a hardwater buildup ring around where the old base was. I just used a paring knife (because it was within arms reach) to scrape it off, then a little scouring cleanser to polish it up. Also, you need a bucket here, too, to catch the water from the hoses. Finally, I’m initially attracted to all things shiny, so I was really leaning toward the chrome finish, but the reality of my life is water spots, so I went with brushed nickel. Much better.



So much better.



A Towel/Coat Rack

We’re in the second home we’ve bought, and it’s the second home I’ve moved into that had the towel bars ripped off the walls. Am I the only one? I’ve never really seen the point of patching those holes because you can’t put a new towel bar up in the same spot, and chances are extremely likely that a new towel bar will also be torn out of the wall. Studs are your friend, but I’ve never found a towel bar that is 16 or 32 inches wide (16 inches is the space between studs) or the studs are never in the place I’d really like my towel bar to be.


Holes in the wall and a cute helper

That’s when I came up with this solution. It was for our first house. We had way less money (like, none), so I used a couple of scrap pieces of cedar my father-in-law gave me and the cheapest hooks I could find at Walmart. And it was amazing! Little hands (and big) can hang towels up easily, instead of shoving them through a small space and … pulling the bar off the wall.


This time I decided to up the fancy factor a little with some trim. It required some miter work, but it’s really easy.

I stopped in at my local lumber store to price out the lumber I would need. I originally thought I’d use something like poplar, but at $20 for a six foot length, I decided pine would be just fine. And here’s a tip. When you’re picking out your pine (ALWAYS pick your own!) set it on the ground and eyeball it to make sure it’s straight. A bow in it is ok, but sometimes there are boards that decide to take a little trip off in one direction. You don’t want that. I picked a six foot long 1×8 and paid $5.44.

Here’s where I decided to spend a little money that was unnecessary. I picked out a beautiful piece of hemlock crown at $2.73 a foot. I ended up needing seven feet since I didn’t pre-think my cuts, so that was almost $20. I could have definitely used an MDF trim, or even a pre-primed pine. But since it was going in a bathroom, I didn’t want to have to worry about MDF swelling, and I loved this one, so there you go.

Now to the fun stuff.


Power tools! A miter saw is really helpful for this. You’ll also want a power drill/driver with both a drill bit and a driver head, a stud finder, and a level.

I wanted my board to be 5 1/2 feet long, so I took six inches off my pine board and primed it and the trim board, plus added a couple coats of paint. (Sherwin Williams ProClassic in Extra White Semi-Gloss. I asked what would dry the hardest and they said this is recommended for trim doors. On sale, of course.)

When the paint was dry (it needs four hours between coats and being handled) I marked the studs on the wall, put the board up with a level on top, and screwed the board to the wall at the studs, placing the screws where the trim would cover. I’ve also done this where I attached the trim and then mounted the whole thing to the wall, but then I had to countersink the screw heads and cover them, and I didn’t like that as much.

I should have taken a picture of this step, but doing it all myself and then remembering to photograph it as well was more than my frazzled brain could handle.

Since the board is up, now let’s cut some trim. I wasn’t using my full brain for this part either and had to go get an extra foot of the trim. I could have definitely done it with what I had if I had thought it out a little before.


Here’s a really fancy and professional sketch of what I’m talking about. Also, extremely to scale. Make your cuts so you end up cutting a V out, and you’ll have very little waste. Those two side pieces at the shortest part will be the length of the side of your board. If you’re using 1x, it’ll be 3/4″.







See that crescent shaped ruler at the front of saw? That’s how you’ll set your angle. Now stretch your brain to your high school geometry class, or just trust me, that you need to set it to 45 degrees. And here’s where it can get a little tricky. Honestly, it’s easiest to draw your cut lines on you board before you bring it to this point, because trying to visualize angles and cut lines is tough! At least for me.

Also, notice that there are two marks with 45 degrees on them. That is so you can set your angle to the right direction. If you drawn your lines, you’ll be good to go. Oh, and draw the lines one at a time, to account for blade width. It’ll take off a hair more than your pencil line. And you want your blade to cut just on the pencil line so you can almost still see it on your finished piece. I’m so bossy! But this will make for less filling in the end.

My saw has a red button that I push down and then turn to whatever angle I need. Yours should be similar. Go ahead and make a cut.


If I had been smart in the very first place, I wouldn’t have been cutting this extra foot of trim I had to go buy. If I had learned my lesson in the second place, I would have only had to make one cut. But, alas, I’m not and I didn’t. Two cuts for me. Live and learn and then pass your knowledge along.


Now we’re going to attach the trim! Exciting stuff. I highly recommend drilling a tiny hole in the small pieces so you don’t split the wood in half. Again, from experience. I was just smart enough to learn from it the first time this time.

Ah, a nice blurry picture of glue. But seriously, use it. Trust me. Then put in a nail (or a few if you’re nailing the long piece) and sink all your nails.


Like so. If you don’t have a nail sink, you can use another nail to tap that nailhead in.


Fill your the nail holes and those pesky gaps between your never perfectly cut joints, let it dry, sand, repeat, then touch up paint.


While I was waiting for the whole filling/drying/sanding/repeat process to be done, I chose some pretty hooks and put those up. These are from Walmart. I think they’re pretty great, plus a much better price than the lumber store.

To get the right spacing, you need to divide the length of your board by the number of hooks plus one. Confusing, right? If you have eight hooks like I did, you’ll need nine spaces to get them even. Still confusing, but trust me. I measured it out about 6 times. I needed 7.33333333333333 inches between my hooks and that was not very fun to figure out because there is no such mark as .3 inches in American measurement. I should have used metric.

Once all your measuring, drilling, attaching, filling, drying, sanding, touch-up painting, and drying are done, you’ll have a great towel hook rack for your bathroom! Or back hall!


Where all your kids snow coats and pants hang are still hanging from that one day when you got half an inch of really wet snow and they had to go sledding!


Ain’t it purty? And Brandon only mocked me a few times about needing 20 kids so it’ll get full. He’s so funny.




Wedding Fun

A friend of mine got married over the weekend and asked if I could help out with a few things.


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All images from Pinterest


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All images from my fancy phone

She begged and borrowed ladders, crates, and lanterns from friends and family for all the decorations. Add in some mason jars, tons of babies breath, Christmas lights, twine and tulle, and it really a pretty easy and inexpensive reception.

I helped with the banners and signs for the food tables, a simple cake topper, and flowers. It turned out to be a great couple of days creating and decorating!


Because I’m super cheap, I made the banners out of brown lunch bags and cardstock. I printed the letters on my computer using Veteran Typewriter font from Dafont.com. I just trimmed to bags down to one layer, cut the ends at an angle, tore the cardstock edges, glued the letters down, and used one of the folds already in the bag to glue it all to twine.

One note about tearing cardstock- To get the rough edge to show, you have to tear it like is shown in the photo. Otherwise, you get a torn edge, but you don’t have the raw paper, too. From a distance I’m sure no one noticed, but if you’re doing something up close, make sure you tear the edge you’re discarding toward you. Then you’ll have the right look.


This is my interpretation of a wire cake topper she had seen and loved. Super simple. I had the heavy gauge wire in my garage from who knows what, and some leftover spray paint from painting my house numbers. I drew out how I wanted the letters to look to use as a template and got to bending. Quick and easy.


The flowers were my favorite. It was so fun to flex those design muscles, but I was super nervous about her liking them. I got from her inspiration photos that she wanted something relaxed and flowing. This is what I came up with. I had sent her pictures of the other projects as I worked on them, because I was pretty confident she’d love them, but I was nervous about the flowers and didn’t show her until the day of. I’m still not sure how she felt about them, but I know she loved everything else, plus, if she got them on the day of and hated them, she’d be too busy to care too much! Hopefully…

Anyway, that was last week. It was a ton of fun to ignore my house and make a huge mess for someone! Plus, it got my wheels turning for my sister’s wedding coming up in February.

I also had some people tell me I should plan parties. I responded by laughing in their faces. My momma raised me well.